Feb 8, 2011

Sake Journey –麹室の巻II the place called Koji muro II-


After the journey to Shubo, I almost stepped into Tsukuri, the Sake mash making.
but there are a few things I to do in Koji-room, so let's go one step backward.
the last post from Koji-muro, we steamed and sprinkled Koji-mold spores to rice,
"Toko-momi" massage, then "Tsutsumi-age", covering them like a baby.
the baby Koji-rice after a half day was put through the stirrer 
and separated the equal amount, then moved into Koji-making machine.

酒母も終えて次は造りへ!と行きたい所ですが、
まだ麹室でのお仕事があるというので1ステップ戻ります。
麹室のポストでは蒸したお米に種麹の菌を散布させて、「床もみ」マッサージ、
赤ちゃんの様に「包みあげ」するとこまで進みました。
それから半日経った麹米ちゃんたち。
ぱらぱらに撹拌され、均一の量で分けられ、製麹機の中へ。




This all-computerized Koji making machine by Hakuyo is brilliant helper,
that controls the temperature and humidity, and also weigh Koji rice 
without any Koji-specialist staying over night.  (traditionally, the person in charge of Koji rice 
have to stay close to Koji-muro for whole two days without much sleep)
Almost all the Koji rice here except some Daiginjo for the competition and so, is made with this machine.
Oh Takashimizu Goshono brewery, you amaze and amuse me with your latest facilities.

このコンピュータ制御のハクヨー五段盛製麹機が凄い。
麹の専門家がいなくても、泊まり込みなしで温度や湿度管理を行ってくれ、
麹米の重量測定まで行ってくれるという優れモノ。
(伝統的な造りでは、ほぼ丸二日麹担当者が麹室を離れず寝ずに温度や湿度管理を行います)
出品酒など一部の大吟醸以外はここで全て行うそう。
高清水、御所野蔵。びっくりする最新設備だらけです。



それでも、段の高さを入れ替えて機械内の温度を均一にしたり、
仲仕事(なかしごと)」といって麹米をかき混ぜ、
二酸化炭素を拡散し、均一に酸素を与える作業は全て人の手を使います。
あたたかな麹米を無心にまぜまぜ。
日本酒をつくる麹菌とお米との距離がとても近く感じられ、大好きな時間でした。
麹の作用でお肌もつるつる。

But we still use human hands to change the level of container to equalize the temperature,
and "Naka shigoto", which we stir Koji rice again in the middle of process to release the carbon dioxide and to equalize the amount of oxgen.
Mixing warm, fluffy Koji rice was therapeutic. I got to feel the distance between Koji and Sake rice so close that it became my favorite time in the brewery.
Also it worked so well on my skin! Koji power!


This is the amount of water evaporated after "Naka shiboto".
After washing and steaming rice, the weight of rice became around 1.5 times heavier.
In this Koji room, we take time to decrease it to 1.2.

仲仕事の翌日に取れた水分。洗米、蒸米を経て1.5倍近く増えた水分量を
この麹室で時間をかけ1.2倍にまで減らしていきます。






そして麹室に届いて約50時間後、最後の作業、「出麹(でこうじ)」を迎えます。
この頃には麹米は焼いた栗のような甘く香ばしい香りでいっぱい。
(実際の味も栗のようにほくほく甘いんです。♥!)
この香りが麹の仕上がったサイン。麹室から出して麹菌のうごきを止めます。
造り用は大きなコンテナに入れて冷却器に。酒母(酛)用は、平らな麹箱にならして、
冷やしていきます。

After 50hours of staying in Koji muro, we finally will finish off with "Dekoji" process.
The Koji rice around this period has full of toasty and sweet aromas like roasted chestnuts.
(it actually tastes like roasted chestnuts as well. heart!)
This is a signal for the end of Koji making. we move the Koji rice outside of the Koji muro, to stop the movement of Koji spores.
for sake mash making, we put them in the bigger containers and set with cooling machine.
and for Shubo making, flattening out on the separated Koji-boxes and cool down.



「理想的な麹米の固さは、握ると軟式テニスボールと同じ位の固さで、
手を広げるとパラパラと落ちる程度だよ。」
そういって何度も、コンペイ糖のように
破精(はぜ=麹菌の浸食)のまわった麹米を愛でるように触る加藤杜氏。

麹づくりは酒づくりの心臓部分。
愛情を込めて、丁寧に、しっかり麹菌に向き合います。

"The ideal firmness of Koji rice, is the same firmness as soft tennis balls,
and when you open your palms, they are not too sticky and falls individually."
says Master Sake brewer Kato, touching Koji rice as if they are his baby.

Koji production is at the very heart of the sake-brewing process.
with lots of love and care, we face seriously with the microorganisms.

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