I went on the International Wine Challenge and Sake Samurai Tour
to visit 5 different sake breweries in 5 prefectures
to visit 5 different sake breweries in 5 prefectures
as a prize for Sake Communicator Award I received last year.
After my visit to "Born" Sake of Katoukichibee Shouten,
my third destination was to Shata Shuzo, the producer of "Tengumai" sake
in Shirayama ciry, Ishikawa prefecture.
The brewery was established in 1823, Their brand name "Tengumai" is named after
Tengu, a long‐nosed goblin who was believed to dance in the enormous woods
around the brewery.
I am excited to see the goblin who was raised by the beautiful nature of the Kaga plains
and attracting people from all over the world.
The brewery was established in 1823, Their brand name "Tengumai" is named after
Tengu, a long‐nosed goblin who was believed to dance in the enormous woods
around the brewery.
I am excited to see the goblin who was raised by the beautiful nature of the Kaga plains
and attracting people from all over the world.
昨年末に頂いたサケ・コミュニケーター・アワードの賞品、
一週間で五県、五蔵を巡るIWC＆サケサムライさんスポンサーの旅行記。
「梵」の蔵元、加藤吉平商店さんのある福井県鯖江市を訪ねた後、
三つ目の目的地、金沢の南郊に位置する石川県白山市にある
「天狗舞」の醸造元、車多酒造さんへやってきました。
「天狗舞」の醸造元、車多酒造さんへやってきました。
創業は１８２３年、文政６年。当時蔵はうっそうとした森に囲まれていて、
木々の葉の擦れ合う音が、まるで天狗の舞う音に聞こえた事から
「天狗舞」と名付けられたそうです。加賀平野の自然に育てられ、
世界中の人を魅了する天狗さんに会えるかな。
木々の葉の擦れ合う音が、まるで天狗の舞う音に聞こえた事から
「天狗舞」と名付けられたそうです。加賀平野の自然に育てられ、
世界中の人を魅了する天狗さんに会えるかな。
Shata Shuzo is well known for their high quality sake and
their "Tengumai, Yamahai Junmai 2009" had won the gold medal
for Junmai category at IWC2011.
Their speciality is traditional Yamahai style of sake, which takes more time and energy to produce
because of its process; in the most common style (called Sokujo-moto) today,
the brewer adds lactic acid when making the yeast starters
to get rid of unwanted bacteria inside of the tank. Whereas in Yamahai-moto style,
the starter is left out for the wild lactic acid in the air to come in.
Since 2006, Mr. Kazunari Shata started new fresh brand "GoRIN"
to reach out to younger generation.
Last time I saw Mr. Shata was at last year's IWC Award dinner,
my dream of visiting his brewery came true so quickly.
車多酒造さんは、「天狗舞山廃仕込み純米酒 2009」は
their "Tengumai, Yamahai Junmai 2009" had won the gold medal
for Junmai category at IWC2011.
Their speciality is traditional Yamahai style of sake, which takes more time and energy to produce
because of its process; in the most common style (called Sokujo-moto) today,
the brewer adds lactic acid when making the yeast starters
to get rid of unwanted bacteria inside of the tank. Whereas in Yamahai-moto style,
the starter is left out for the wild lactic acid in the air to come in.
Since 2006, Mr. Kazunari Shata started new fresh brand "GoRIN"
to reach out to younger generation.
Last time I saw Mr. Shata was at last year's IWC Award dinner,
my dream of visiting his brewery came true so quickly.
車多酒造さんは、「天狗舞山廃仕込み純米酒 2009」は
昨年のIWCの純米酒部門でゴールドメダルを獲得した名醸蔵。
現在一般的な既成の乳酸菌を加える速醸酛（そくじょうもと）造りではなく、
自然の乳酸菌の力を使ってその倍の時間と手間のかけて醸す
「山廃酛（やまはいもと）」という伝統的な製法にこだわっています。
２００６年からは、車多一成専務の手がけたフレッシュな新しい銘柄
「五凛(GoRIN)」も仲間に加わって車多ファミリーを盛り上げています。
現在一般的な既成の乳酸菌を加える速醸酛（そくじょうもと）造りではなく、
自然の乳酸菌の力を使ってその倍の時間と手間のかけて醸す
「山廃酛（やまはいもと）」という伝統的な製法にこだわっています。
２００６年からは、車多一成専務の手がけたフレッシュな新しい銘柄
「五凛(GoRIN)」も仲間に加わって車多ファミリーを盛り上げています。
Pimienta was extremely excited, because the Mr. legend of Noto-style Toji
(master sake brewer) Saburo Naka had showed me around the brewery!
The Karashi-ba room for completed Koji to rest and cool down,
was filled with aromas of freshly made Koji, which smells like sweet chestnuts.
Since 80% of this brewery's whole production is done by Yamahai style,
their Koji tends to have deeper propagation of koji mold than usual.
能登スタイルの杜氏の四天王とも呼ばれる名杜氏、中三郎さんが
蔵の案内をしてくれるというので、ぴみえんたは大興奮！
造りの８０％が山廃酛という天狗舞さんの麹の枯らし場は、
（「出麹」という麹の進行を止める為の乾燥した低温の部屋）
できたての麹の、栗のような甘い香りでいっぱい。
麹菌の繁殖を意味する破精（はぜ）を通常より強くまわった真っ白な麹米も、
天狗舞さんの特徴です。
A handsome hand of Naka Toji.
中杜氏の立派な手。
Koji rice, as white and powdery as the leftover snow of the season.
I personally like the peach colored beautiful Moromi mash in the tank and
clear color of freshly pressed sake which you can see through anything,
yet I am in love with Koji rice, which is so sweet, soft and gentle.
まだ至る所に残る雪のように白く、さらさらとした麹。
肌色の泡の綺麗な醪も、搾りたてのお酒のきらきらと透き通った美しさも
大好きなのですが、個人的に甘くて柔らかい麹の優しい姿が大ファンなのです。
Because of long maturation and Yamahai style which involved complete fermentation,
Tengumai's sake has rich, earthy and complex flavors like nuts and mushrooms,
as well as good amounts of Umami and acidity that lift up the flavor of food.
The very first Yamahai sake I'd tried was Tengumai's Yamahai Junmai.
I still remember its eye-opening experience.
The savoriness and acidity of Yamahai sake has been widely accepted by
wine lovers in the Western countries and the word "Yamahai" and "Kimoto" have been
a key word for some customers already at Roka.
Yamahai sake is great to warm as well and
even some advanced customers request to have one bottle of Yamahai sake
"one third chilled, one third in room temperature, and the rest warmed".
The playful characteristics of Yamahai being able to drink in wider temperature range
may also the reason why Yamahai / Kimoto sake can be popular in the UK.
私の人生で初めての山廃体験は、偶然にも天狗舞さんの山廃純米酒。
今でもあの時の感激をしっかりと覚えています。
完全発酵と長期熟成からくるナッツやマッシュルームにも似た深く濃厚な味わい、
食べ物を引き立ててくれるしっかりとした酸、豊富な旨味成分が特徴的。
ワインを飲む西洋人にも、この山廃の持つ酸が非常にうけるようで、
当店でも「Yamahai」や「Kimoto」がキーワードになりつつある程の人気。
お燗酒にすると、もっと柔らかさと酸が膨らんで異なる顔に。
四合瓶を注文する上級のお客様からは、
「三分の一冷やして、三分の一常温で、残りをぬる燗で」
というリクエストも受けることもしばしば。
様々な温度帯で飲めるという遊び心をくすぐる要素も、
欧州での山廃／生酛人気の秘訣なのかもしれません。
Tengumai, the paradise of Yamahai sake
is supported by the wealthy and abundant food culture of this region.
On my next post, I will introduce the food and ingredients of Kanazawa
I met on my trip with Mr. Shata.
山廃天国の天狗舞を支えるのは、
この土地に根ざした豊かな食文化。
次回は、金沢で出逢った食材たちを紹介させてもらいます。
is supported by the wealthy and abundant food culture of this region.
On my next post, I will introduce the food and ingredients of Kanazawa
I met on my trip with Mr. Shata.
山廃天国の天狗舞を支えるのは、
この土地に根ざした豊かな食文化。
次回は、金沢で出逢った食材たちを紹介させてもらいます。
